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Small dogs have special needs. If you have a small dog, learn some of the differences you'll need to know for proper training and health care.

Small Dogs: They are more than just "smaller" big dogs! 

Temperamentally, small dogs and big dogs are very similar. The difference is how we humans treat and respond to them. Have you ever seen the owner of a German Shepherd Dog scoop her pet up into her arms as another dog passed by? How many Labradors have you seen sporting a collar that matches both his sweater and his painted toenails?

We tend to view small dogs as eternal puppies or even as surrogate children. Big dogs warm our homes and hearths, but there’s something about the little dogs that seems to warm our hearts. However, in that little head is the mind of a dog, and sometimes the way we treat our littler companions can encourage and create behavioral problems. Here are some things to keep in mind as you get to know your small dog.

To dogs, height is the same as status: The bigger you are, the more powerful you are immediately assumed to be. Little dogs are usually the shortest dogs around, but they spend a lot of time up high in our arms. This effectively makes them the biggest dogs around. Little dogs who are perpetually up high can become reactive towards people or other dogs. It’s important for little dogs to remember they are small now and again.

Little dogs should earn things too: We often pamper our little dogs because they’re so adorable. This can unintentionally teach ours dogs that they run the household. Teach your small dog some basic obedience (or some tricks!) and ask her to perform simple commands to earn her meals, your attention, her treats and her toys.

Don’t free-feed: Little dogs can be picky eaters, and many owners leave bowls of food down so their pets can eat at their leisure. Food is one of the most powerful tools we have when it come to training dogs. A dog who can eat any time he likes will never realize that you provide the food. What’s more, free-feeding can lead to obesity.

Get ready to housebreak: The one way small dogs do seem to differ significantly from bigger dogs is that they are more challenging to housetrain. Be patient and contact our trainers if you have any questions or challenges. Housetraining a small dog can take months, and some are never 100% reliable.

Take bad behavior seriously: A small dog that’s snarling and snapping can appear more comical than threatening, but your dog doesn’t realize that. If your small dog is performing behaviors that would frighten you if she were bigger, contact a trainer as soon as you can.

Litter Box Training Your Small Dog

If you live in an apartment or a home without a yard, you may want to consider litter box training your small dog. Litter box training is not for everyone, but it does offer an alternative if you have limited access to outdoor areas or you have a dog who refuses to go outdoors when it’s cold or rainy, even to do her business. Litter box training can also be useful if you’re gone for a full work day and your dog seems to have a hard time holding her bladder for so long. You can also use litter box training in conjunction with outdoor training so your dog is comfortable using both.

What You Will Need:

  • A Litter box: Litter boxes specifically for dogs are available, or you can buy a large size cat litter box. If you have a male dog, get a cat litter box with a hooded cover. Use a dremel or handsaw to cut off the top of the hood, but leave the sides. Then if your male lifts his leg, he’ll pee against the tall sides instead of onto the floor.
  • Newspaper: To line the bottom of the box (in the beginning).
  • Litter: You can use either cat litter or dog litter. Clumping cat litter can be toxic to dogs if ingested, so avoid it. Dog litter is made of larger pellets that can make scooping difficult but also inhibit your dog from digging and scattering litter on the floor.
  • A Large Litter Scoop
  • Diaper Pail or another place to dispose of waste.
  • Cleaning Supplies: Both to routinely clean the litter box and to deal with any accidents your dog has while learning.

To start Litter Box Training, you’ll need to do three things:

  • Set up the litter box: pick a room with easy-to-clean floors to place the litter box. It should be a room that your dog will always be able to access. Line the entire floor with newspaper and set the litter box up with newspaper on the bottom and a very light scattering of litter.
  • Confine your dog: Using the confinement methods outlined in your Adoption Packet, keep a close watch on your dog. Any time he’s about to go to the bathroom, rush him into the litter box room. Give him tons of praise and several treats for going potty on the newspaper.
  • Acclimate your dog to the litter box: Before you can expect your dog to use the litter box, she has to be comfortable jumping in and out of it. Pick a word or phrase to mean go use the litter box. Anything from "go potty" to "use your box" will do. Take your dog over to the litter box, say your phrase, place her inside, and praise and treat her. If she wants to hop out, that’s fine. Gently repeat the phrase put her back in. If she gets tired or stressed, end the session. When your dog will jump into the litter box on her own or when you say the phrase, you’re ready for the next stage.

Once your dog will easily go in and out of the litter box, you can begin limiting his potty zone to a much smaller area. The fastest and most effective way to do this is to use a modified form of crate training.

  • Shrink the space: In the same room where the litter box has always been, either partition off a very small area with baby gates or plastic lattice board or purchase a crate large enough to fit the litter box with a little extra space besides. The end result should be an area that fits the litter box and allows a little extra space where your dog can stand up, turn around, and lie down. Besides this one little spot, the only other place your dog should be able to move to is the litter box.
  • Using the space: Once you have your area set up, place your dog in the space during typical "potty times" (after eating, sleeping, or play sessions) and leave him there until he uses the box. As soon as he does, praise and treat him. This is also where your dog will stay when you’re out of the house or can’t keep a close eye on him. In the learning stages, your dog should either be tethered to you or in his litter box area.
  • Fading the paper: If your dog is reliably using the litter box, it’s time to wean away the paper and replace it with litter. Gradually begin adding more litter and having less paper. The progression should move so slowly that your dog shouldn’t notice the change.
  • Earning freedom: Once your dog is using the litter box with litter reliably, begin leaving the crate door open or the baby gate down so your dog can access the litter box any time she wants. Leave a leash dragging on her and continue to watch her closely. Be prepared for some accidents! Whenever your dog moves out of your sight, follow her. If she uses the litter box on her own, tons of praise and treats. If she’s about to potty somewhere else, startle her with a loud NO or by clapping your hands. Then lead her to her litter box and reward her for using it.

Troubleshooting

Even a fully litter box trained dog can make mistakes. Here are some common issues and suggestions on how to resolve them.

  • One or the other: Some dogs will pee in the litter box but poop outside of it (or vice versa). Normally, dogs don’t pee and poo in the same spot at the same time and doing so can feel strange. Also, some dogs need to "walk it out" or pace in a specific pattern before they can go potty. Lay out some paper or pee pads next to the box and allow this to be the "poop" zone if necessary. The rules should be that pee MUST happen in the box and poop MUST happen in the room, ideally on the paper. If you find your dog pooping in one area of the room consistently, move the paper to that spot.
  • Getting lazy: Some dogs will be perfect on their housebreaking for a while and then slide back into having accidents. As soon as a single accident occurs, go back to stage two until your dog is back on track. It’s also a good idea to leave "sliding" dogs in a single room with their litter box when you’re out of the house.







Oakland Adoption Center
510.569.0702

Oakland SPCA
Vet Clinic
510.569.1606

Oakland Spay/Neuter Center
510.639.7387

Tri-Valley Adoption Center
925.479.9670

Tri-Valley Spay/Neuter Center in Dublin
925.479.9674


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