Congratulations on adopting a dog. If you’ve never owned a dog before, or if it’s been a while since you’ve brought a new dog home, the first day can be full of questions. This portion of the Adoption Packet is designed to walk you through the first 24 hours with your new dog and hopefully address most of your concerns during that time.
Leaving the Shelter. As part of your adoption, you will have been given a temporary leash, collar, and ID for your new dog. These items were intended to get you home safely, but are not meant for any extended use. Before you walk out the door, check your dog’s temporary collar. Make sure it is on securely and that it cannot easily slip over your dog’s head. If you find that it can, alert a staff member and they will be happy to readjust it for you.
Heading out the door, some dogs can’t wait to leave while others appear more hesitant. Different personalities respond differently to big changes. Some dogs adore cars while others can be frightened of riding in them. Since the shelter staff may not be able to tell you if your dog has been in a car before, it’s a good idea to cover the seat with an old blanket or towels in case your dog gets carsick.
From the moment you leave the shelter to the moment you step through the door of your home, someone should be holding your dog’s leash at all times. If you adopted a young puppy or a small dog, carry him from place to place. A dog who gets loose may not come back to you. Remember that your new dog doesn’t yet understand that she’s coming home.
Getting Supplies. Many pet stores allow you to bring your dog inside and walk him through the aisles. This can be useful if you’re purchasing items that must be properly fitted (like collars and crates). However, other dogs may be in the store as well, so if you don’t know how your dog behaves around other dogs, it may be best to leave her in the car with someone waiting with her, or leave her at home. The things you will need in the first 24 hours are: dog food, bowls for food and water, and some form of confinement.
Arriving Home. Before you step inside, walk your dog around outside to the place where you would like him to potty. Most dogs will begin investigating their new surroundings right away, and some will want to "mark" as well. Let your dog explore the outdoor areas first to make it more likely that he will pee outdoors instead of somewhere in your house. If he does pee or poop outside, be sure to let him know what a good job he did.
When you bring your dog indoors, keep him on leash. Walk him through the house and show him important places such as the location of his water bowl, his crate, dog beds and any toys that he can have. Watch for things you didn’t anticipate him getting into, such as electric cords, waste baskets and cupboard doors that seem easy to nudge open. Giving your new dog the grand tour on leash means you can note and correct these issues without your dog getting into trouble. After he’s gotten to see the house, take your dog back outside for a final potty break.
Settling In. After the tour, it’s time to relax with your new dog. Depending on her activity level, you may want to snuggle on the couch, play some tug, or let her play some fetch in the back yard. Hold off on introducing your dog to non-household members for at least a day. The sudden transition from shelter to home can be overwhelming, and many dogs are much more subdued than normal for the first few days.
Potty Training the First Day. The most important things are to be consistent and keep an eye on your dog. Even if he doesn’t ask, take your dog outside every couple hours and reward him if he goes potty outside. Not all dogs know to ask when they need to go out, so offering them an opportunity often means fewer accidents in the house. (Also see Housebreaking Tips.) Don’t be surprised if your dog doesn’t pee or poop much the first day. This is normal. Also don’t be alarmed if your dog has diarrhea the first few days. Sudden change in environment and food can cause an upset stomach. If, on the other hand, your dog has bloody diarrhea, get a sample and contact a vet as soon as possible. Bloody diarrhea can indicate several problems, all of which require veterinary attention.
First Meal. Some dogs have a decreased appetite their first days home, so don’t worry if your dog doesn’t eat. Show your dog the food and leave it down for about 15 minutes. If she ignores the food, just pick it up until the next mealtime. Don’t change foods every time your dog doesn’t eat, which can create a pickier appetite than just offering the same food until she’s hungry. Usually lack of appetite the first day has more to do with stress than with actually disliking the food offered. If your dog does eat, start asking for a small behavior before the bowl of food is put down (like "sit" or looking towards you when you say her name).
Bedtime. It’s best if your dog sleeps in a crate the first night home. It gives him a secure place to rest and insures that your new dog won’t get into trouble while you’re asleep. Right before bed, give your dog a final opportunity to go out to potty, then place him in his crate and close the door for the night. Some dogs (especially puppies) will cry or whine at first. Ignoring these noises will help teach your dog that bedtime is bedtime. If you pay attention to your dog when he whines, he’ll soon learn that whining is a good way to get out of his crate.
If you have a young pup, expect to be awakened in the middle of the night. Puppies have smaller bladders and need to go potty more often. If your puppy starts whining at 2 a.m., chances are he woke up because he desperately needs to pee. Take him out, but after he relieves himself, place him back in his crate. Going out to potty is one thing, but if you make waking up in the middle of the night fun, your puppy will never learn to sleep until morning.
Waking Up. As soon as you get up in the morning, leash up your dog, let her out of the crate and walk her outside to potty. If you can tether your dog as you go about your morning routine, do so. If not, place your dog back into the crate or on tie down as you get dressed. When you’re ready to go, let your dog out of the crate and offer her breakfast. Give her about 15 minutes to show interest in the food. If she doesn’t eat, take the food away until dinner. If you’re going to be gone for most of the day, your new dog will need some kind of mental stimulation before you go.
For an older or more mellow dog, this may mean a walk around the neighborhood. The younger and more energetic dog will need something active to do, such as a jog or game of fetch in a fenced-in outdoor area. All of this new morning routine may require you to get up earlier than usual, but it is necessary if you want your dog to be calm and content when you leave her home alone. Before you leave, choose a method of confinement that’s appropriate for the length of time you’ll be gone (crating for 5 hours or less, confinement to a dog proofed room for 6 hours or more).
Coming Home. When you arrive home again, the first thing you should do is leash up your dog and take him outside to go potty. Keep arrivals calm. The more excited you get, the more worked up your dog will get about you returning. If you are only home for lunch, let your dog stretch his legs and offer him a work-to-eat or work-to-play toy. If you’ve come home at the end of the day, give your dog another exercise session.
Staying Home. If you don’t leave home for work, it’s still important to exercise your dog in the morning if you want her to be quiet and calm during the day. You can have her tethered to you as you go about your day, or you can place her in the crate for a few hours if you need some dog-free time. Just because you are at home doesn’t mean you should be at the beck and call of your dog. If there are periods during the normal day where you cannot spend time with your dog, begin crating her during those times. Try not to get your dog used to attention and interactions she won’t normally get, as once things settle back to normal, it can create frustration.
